Pomeranian Grooming and Crate Training

 

Coat: The coat is made up of an undercoat and an outer coat. The former is soft and fluffy; the latter is long, straight and harsh, and covers the whole of the body.The coat is very abundant around the neck and the fore part of the shoulders and chest, forming a frill that extends over the shoulder. The forequarters are well feathered to the hocks.Maintenance: It needs regular attention to keep it clean and attractive. Thorough brushing, checking nails, cleaning ears and teeth, and trimming should be done once a week.Males cast their coats once a year and females twice a year ( usually after a seasons) ending up looking quite sorry for themselves. Don't worry, it will grow back, sometimes better than ever.

 

Equipment needed: Slicker/pin brush, medium - toothed metal comb, scissors, cotton buds.
Breed tip: Brush against the lie of the coat to give the Pomeranian its round pompom appearance.
*Brush the coat with the slicker / pin brush. Work from the top of the head, layering the hair as you go and making sure you reach skin level.


*Next , work through the coat with the comb. If you encounter any tangles, try to tease them out gently using finger and thumb or a comb. If you need to use scissors, cut down the length of the knot - not across - to ensure minimal coat loss.
*A bath should only be considered when the dog is out of coat - when in coat, use a dry shampoo. For a wet bath, use suitable pH- alkaline - balanced shampoo, rinsing carefully. ( opinions vary greatly on this.) I bathe my dogs when dirty or starting to smell bad. If only paws and belly get dirty from rain or mud spot clean with a waterless shampoo. Baby wipes work well also for spot cleaning.
*Blow - dry the hair. Work from the head, layering the hair as you go. Brush as you dry.
*Check the dog's nails and clean its ears and teeth.
*Trim the hair with thinning shears or scissors from the hocks in order to give a smooth finish.
*Trim the hair under the feet where necessary, tidying around the feet to give them a catlike appearance,

( also cuts down on dirt trekked in to the house).
*The hair around the anus should also be trimmed for hygiene reasons.

 

As your dog sees it, the crate is a room of his very own - a "security blanket". The crate helps to satisfy the "den instinct" inherited from his den-dwelling ancestors and relatives. Your pet will feel secure, not frustrated once accustomed to his crate. Your pet wants to please you and you want to enjoy him. The crate can help you achieve a better relationship with your pet by preventing unwanted behavior when you aren't available to supervise him.

 

The advantages of using a crate
With the help of a crate:

·  You can enjoy peace of mind when leaving your dog alone, knowing that nothing can be soiled or destroyed and that he is comfortable, safe,  and not developing bad habits.

·  You can housebreak your pet more quickly by using the close confinement to motivate your pet to wait until taken outside, since canines naturally avoid soiling their den.

·  You can travel with your pet without risk of the the dog getting loose and becoming lost or interfering with safe driving.

·  Your dog can enjoy the security and privacy of den of his own to which he can retreat when tired or stressed.

·  Your dog can avoid much of the fear and confusion caused by your reaction to problem behavior.

·  Since he can more easily adapt to staying in unfamiliar places as long as he has his familiar "security blanket" along, your pet can be included in family outings, instead of being left behind alone.

Purchasing a crate
 Crates can be purchased at pet stores, department stores, and from pet supply catalogs. (I buy my crates of ebay, even with shipping there cheaper than most stores.) Look for a wire crate that includes a removable metal or plastic floor pan. Plastic crates can also be used, although some dogs will chew the plastic. For your pet's comfort, look for one with a smooth floor. Purchase  a crate large enough for your pet to stretch out on its side and to sit or stand erect. If you have a puppy, it is more economical to buy a wire crate that will accommodate him as an adult, then partition it to the right size. A movable wire or pegboard partition can be made or purchased. Too large a crate can undermine housebreaking because your pet may eliminate at one end of the crate and lie down at the other. For bedding, use an old blanket, towel, or buy a washable crate pad.

 

Where should I put it?
Dogs are social animals. Place the crate in an area where the family spends a lot of time - kitchen. family room, etc. The top of the crate can serve as extra shelf or table space. At night, move your puppy's crate into your bedroom so you can hear him if he needs to go out.

Crating a puppy
A young puppy should have no problem accepting the crate as his place. Crying at first is caused, not by the crate, but by adjusting to an unfamiliar household. Do not reward barking or whining with attention! If you are sure he doesn't need to eliminate, ignore him until he is quiet, then praise him or take him out of the crate.

 Do not leave meals in the crate or feed your puppy immediately prior to confining him. Most puppies will spill water left in the crate. Do leave a safe chew toy in the crate for your pet. Close your pet in the crate whenever he must be left alone or can't be closely supervised by a responsible person.

The crate does not always work!

There are some animals (usually adults) that can or will not tolerate this form of confinement. A few will show no desire to keep the crate clean. Or will Whine and Howl for hours.

 I wish you much sucess in your training efforts. Remember kindness (and treats)will go a long way. :)